Drying Natural Hair: How to Avoid Frizz, Breakage, and Shrinkage

Drying natural hair can be a challenge when you have no clue what you’re doing. Add in the risk of heat damage or hair breakage and you’re downright fearful.

The good news is there are techniques and tools to help you through this process that extend beyond air drying.

This article will help you decide which method will work best for your curls and make drying natural hair a breeze. You will also learn effective ways of drying natural hair that preserve moisture and your curl pattern.

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Why Drying Natural Hair the Right Way Matters

When hair isn’t dried properly, it can cause frizz, heat damage and moisture loss. The outer layers of the hair cuticle lift with increased levels of heat which lead to heat damage. But keeping hair wet and left to dry alone isn’t necessarily better.

A study published by the National Library of Medicine suggests that prolonged periods of wet hair can damage the cell membrane complex (cmc) layer of the hair. The cell membrane complex is what holds hair cells together and is mostly made of lipids and protein. The hair shaft swells when in contact with water and prolonged periods in a wet state can lead to damage.

It’s safe to conclude that some form of hair drying is necessary and the need to do it properly makes a big difference.

Common Mistakes When Drying Natural Hair

Using Bath Towels or Cotton Towels

Regular linen towels absorb too much of the hair’s moisture. They also rough up the outer cuticle of the hair which leads to frizz.

Drying Hair Too Roughly

Taking a dryer to the hair with no concentration nozzle or diffuser attachment is too rough on the outer layers of the hair. This causes that outer layer to open and invites in frizz and makes the hair look dull.

Not Applying a Leave in Or Sealant

Most naturals know to apply a heat protectant or some sort of product prior to flatironing but blow drying requires the same. Products will help seal up the cuticle and can be a protective layer against the harsh heat.

Air Drying vs Diffusing Natural Hair

Air drying hair is a great option when you know you have the time. If not, consider diffusing.

When To Air Dry

Consider outside temperatures. Optimal results occur in low humidity and moderate temperatures. Not too humid and also not too cold. If you’re going to be home all day, you can disregard the temperatures.

Do you have the time? Air drying can take hours and once your hair is finished air drying you might need to stretch and shape it afterwards. To adjust for shrinkage, a little extra time will be needed to get your hair into your desired shape. This is especially true for kinkier textures like 3C or type 4.

How To Air Dry Natural Hair Without Frizz

Avoid air drying in humid temperatures
Make sure your curls look the way you want them to when wet. How it looks wet is how it will set. No need to waste time air drying a wash and go you already don’t like.
Gently remove excess water from the hair with a microfiber towel or old t-shirt. You can do this after applying all of your product or before you apply the product.
Pro Tip – sit under a hooded dryer for 10 to 15 minutes to create a dry cast on the outer layer of curls. This will help to reduce shrinkage when air drying throughout the day. I know we kind of cheated here by using the dryer, haha.
Keep your hands out of your hair until it’s completely dry. Too much touching while wet causes frizz.

When to Diffuse

There are no constraints when you decide you want to diffuse. All you need to do is add an extra half hour or so to fully dry your hair. Be sure to also leave room for stretching to get the shape you want.

How To Use A Diffuser To Dry Your Curls

Make sure you actually have a diffuser attachment. They are inexpensive and many will work with your existing dryer.
Set your dryer to high heat, low speed. The higher heat will help reduce the drying time. The low speed will keep the hair from flying all over the place and causing frizz.
For a voluminous wash and go finish, flip your hair upside down and diffuse that way.
Move the diffuser evenly around your head. I like to do 6-8 seconds on each section before I move to the next. Repeat around the head until you reach your desired level of dry.
Hands off your hair until it’s dry.

The Best Drying Techniques for Naturally Curly Hair

Plopping

Plopping is an excellent way to dry your wash and go. You can do this with either an old t-shirt or a microfiber towel. The idea is to “plop” all of your curls at the top of your head to allow them to dry.

Spread out your microfiber towel or shirt on a flat surface like your bed. Flip your head over so that your curls fall forward. Position the ends of your hair at one end of the shirt or towel and move your head down until it meets the towel. Secure around your head and then leave to dry.

If you prefer a more tamed look, you can try this version of plopping by following this routine.

Tension Method

This is great for when you want to stretch the roots of your wash and go or do a full on blowout.

For your roots, take sections of your dry hair and stretch using the dryer with the concentration nozzle attached. You can stretch the sections at the bottom and leave the rest alone for a layered look.

To do a blowout using the tension method, section the hair into at least 6 sections. Pull each section taut and move the dryer with the concentration nozzle down the section to dry.

You do not need to touch your hair with the tool. Make sure to have the air flowing in one direction to avoid frizzing the hair.

Banding

The banding method is used to stretch already dried curls. It’s a great heat free alternative for stretching 4c natural hair or tightly coiled textured wash and go’s.

To do this all you will need are seamless hair ties. These will help you avoid breakage.

Separate the hair into 4 or more sections. Place the hair ties down the length of each section about an inch to two inches apart. The length of your hair will determine how many hair ties you will need per section. Repeat these steps on the remaining sections.

FAQ’s About Drying Natural Hair

How long does it take for natural hair to dry?

It’s different for everyone and depends a lot on porosity and what drying method you’re using.

Is it bad to air dry natural hair every time?

No. Air drying is the preferred method of drying for many naturals. Just be prepared to take a bit more time before the hair is fully dry. I would also avoid leaving the hair in a bound up and wet state for too long. This can cause fungal infections and damage the hair.

What’s the best blow dryer for curly/natural hair?

1. Conair is a classic dryer and you can find these almost anywhere. They get the job done and are in most households and hotels for a reason.
2. Pattern is a great mid way option to invest in. It was made with curly hair in mind and it comes with lots of attachments to achieve any look. The sleek minimalist design and color is also a plus.
3. Dyson would be more high end price wise but comes with a lot of power to dry the hair quickly. It’s all in the motor and you get the salon quality you paid for.

Why does my hair take so long to dry?

It comes down to hair porosity and chosen drying method. Higher porosity hair will dry faster than lower porosity hair. Also, if you’re not using heat, you should expect it to be a while before your hair is dry. Use microfiber towels to absorb the majority of water in your hair to speed things up a bit. This article will help you speed up your wash and go process so that you can spend less time doing your hair overall.

Drying your hair is a necessary part of the process and your hair’s health depends on it. How you choose to do it is up to you. You are now armed with the techniques and tools to have your best hair drying experience yet. Please let me know if you have any questions or want to share your best tips for drying natural hair.